Most dust collector problems in a home shop come down to a handful of causes: air going somewhere other than the tool, something full or packed, something loose, or the collector not getting the signal to run. Start with the symptom you have, check the easy things first, and only then think about a bigger collector.
Find your symptom
| What you notice | Most likely causes | Check this first | More help |
|---|---|---|---|
| Weak suction at the tool | More than one gate open, a leak, a full bin or loaded filter, long or crushed flex | Close every gate but the one you're using | Weak suction, lost suction checklist |
| Collector won't start | No power at the outlet, a tripped breaker, a starter that needs Start pressed again | Breaker, plug, and the collector's own switch | Won't start |
| Collector keeps running after you're done | It was left on, or the thing that starts it still thinks a tool is running | What starts it: a switch, a remote, or automation | Won't stop |
| Suction drops as the session goes on | Bin filling up, filter loading | The bin level | Bin and filter, filter and bin care |
| Dust at the tool even with the gate "open" | Gate not fully open, wrong gate open, clog in that branch | Look at the gate slide itself | Gates, Clogs |
| Hissing or whistling | A leak or a gate that doesn't seat | Joints, cleanout doors, gate slides | Leaks |
| Chips piling in the duct or a hose that's suddenly dead | A clog at a bend, at a gate, or in long flex | The first bend after the tool | Clogs |
| Shocks when you touch the duct or hose | Static building on plastic duct or flex | Where the shock happens | Static |
| Rattling, banging, or a new noise | Something in the impeller, loose duct or hardware | Unplug and look | Noise |
| Fine dust hanging in the air or settling on everything | Dust escaping the collector, or fine dust the hood never caught | Filter seal and bin seal, then the room air | Dust in the air |
Weak suction
The blower is running, but the tool isn't getting the air. Work down this list in order. Each step is free or close to it.
- 01
Close every gate except the one you're using.
Air takes the easiest path. Two open branches split it, and the tool you're standing at feels weak. This is the most common cause in a shop with manual gates.
- 02
Look at the bin and the filter.
A packed bin or a caked filter chokes the whole system even though the motor sounds normal. See Bin and filter.
- 03
Find leaks.
Loose joints, an open cleanout, a gate slide that doesn't close all the way, and a cracked hose all pull room air instead of tool dust.
- 04
Shorten the flex.
Corrugated hose and tight bends cost airflow fast. Use flex for the last few feet to the tool, not the main run. See flex hose vs hard duct.
- 05
Check for a clog.
If one tool is dead and the others are fine, the problem is in that branch. See Clogs.
If all five check out and it's still weak, the duct may be laid out in a way that starves some tools. See duct layout and blast gate placement before you shop for a bigger collector. The short version of this list lives on the lost suction checklist.
Where automation helps: automated blast gates close the branches you aren't using, so step 1 stops being something you have to remember. Automation doesn't patch a leak, empty a bin, or clean a filter.
The collector won't start
If you start it by hand
- Check the breaker and the outlet. Plug a lamp into the same outlet to be sure it's live.
- Check the collector's own switch and any overload or reset button described in its manual.
- Magnetic starter or no-volt-release switch? These drop out when power is lost and wait for someone to press Start again. That's why a smart plug or plug-in timer won't start them: the outlet turns on, but the starter is still waiting. This is a start-method mismatch, not a dead collector. More on why a smart plug won't start a mag-starter collector. Don't bypass the starter to get around it.
If it starts from a remote
- Replace the remote battery and stand closer to the collector's receiver.
If the motor hums but won't spin, or trips the breaker right away: stop and follow the maker's manual. That's a repair, not a setup problem.
The collector keeps running
- Manual switch: someone left it on. It happens in every shop, mostly when you walk away "for a minute."
- Remote: the off button may not be reaching the receiver. Try a fresh battery and get closer.
- Automated with GRIT: the collector shuts off when the tools tied to it stop. If you set the optional off-delay, it keeps running for that set time first, to clear the ducts and to respect motors that limit starts per minute. That run is normal. If it runs on and on, see Troubleshooting a GRIT-automated shop below.
Full bin and loaded filter
These two cause more "my collector got weak" complaints than anything else.
- Empty the bin before it reaches the inlet. Once chips pack up into the inlet, the collector can look fine from the outside while the airflow falls off.
- Service the filter the way the filter maker says. Bags, cartridges, and canisters each have their own care. We don't publish a GRIT interval because the right one depends on your filter and how much you cut.
- Clean filters outside, or the way the maker says. Banging a filter clean inside the shop just puts the fine dust back in the air you breathe.
Full detail: dust collector filter and bin care.
Where GRIT can help, if you want it: the Dust Bin Sensor watches the fill level in the bin and flashes a strobe and sends an alert in the GRIT App when it's getting full. It doesn't empty the bin. You still do that.
Gates left open, or the wrong gate open
With manual gates, the usual failure isn't a broken gate. It's yesterday's gate still open while you work at a different tool, or no gate open at all.
- Check that the gate at the tool you're running is fully open, and every other gate is closed. Look at the slide, not just the handle.
- A gate that's hard to reach gets left open. Gates should be where you can see and reach them. See duct layout and blast gate placement.
- A sticky gate slide gets left half open. Clean out the track. If the gate has a locking knob, back it out.
- Never close every gate while the collector runs. The collector needs somewhere for the air to go. Keep one chosen branch open.
The day-to-day version of this problem: why manual blast gates get left open.
Where automation helps: with automated blast gates, the gate on the running tool's branch opens and the unused branches stay closed, and the collector starts only after the path is open. That takes the "wrong gate" and "forgot the gate" problems off your list. It won't fix a gate that's jammed or bent.
Leaks
A leak is room air getting into the duct instead of air from the tool. The collector works just as hard and moves less dust.
- Listen with the collector running. A hiss or whistle usually points right at it.
- Check the usual spots: duct joints, cleanout doors, hose clamps, the bin lid seal, the filter clamp, and closed gates that don't seat all the way.
- Fix it properly. Reseat and fasten joints. Replace cracked hose. Use foil tape or the duct maker's sealant where they call for it.
- Leaks on the clean side blow dust out. A bad seal at the filter or bag clamp pushes fine dust into the room instead of pulling it in. See Dust in the air.
Clogs in the duct or hose
- Find it by sections. If one tool is dead and the rest are fine, the clog is in that branch. If everything is weak, look near the collector inlet and the bin first.
- Usual spots: tight bends, the gate itself, a reducer, and long flex where chips catch in the ridges.
- Offcuts and floor sweeps. A floor sweep happily pulls in offcuts, screws, and rags that jam a bend or reach the impeller. Keep a screen or grate on it, and pick up the big stuff by hand.
- Too many gates open makes clogs worse. When the air is split, it slows down in each branch, and chips can drop out and settle.
- Clear it with the collector off and unplugged. Use a cleanout if you have one. Don't reach into the duct with the collector running.
Shops that skip the collector "for one quick cut" also get packed hoods and branches that only show up later. Running the collector every time the tool runs helps here.
Static shocks
Plastic duct and flex hose can build up static as dust moves through them. You feel it as a snap when you touch the hose or the duct.
- Note where it happens: one hose, one tool, or the whole run.
- Ask your duct maker or collector maker how they want their system grounded. We don't give grounding or bonding steps here, and your local code may have its own rules.
- Fine dust that piles up on machines and floors can burn. Keep it cleaned up and the bin emptied. GRIT doesn't prevent or detect fires. A short note on wood dust and fire.
Noise and rattles
- A new bang, rattle, or scrape: turn the collector off, unplug it, and look for something caught in the impeller or the inlet. Don't run it again until it's clear.
- A steady rattle: check for loose duct hangers, clamps, panels, and bolts on the collector.
- A whistle: usually a leak or a gate that's partly open. See Leaks.
- Change in pitch when you switch tools: often a sign that a different number of gates is open, or a branch is restricted.
- Too loud overall: a quieter collector is a bigger project, but running it only while you're cutting means fewer hours of noise. That's one honest benefit of starting the collector from the tool.
Dust escaping into the air
Some fine dust in the air means one of two things: the collector is letting it out, or the tool's hood never caught it.
If the collector is letting it out
- Look for a dust ring around the filter or bag clamp, or around the bin lid. Reseat or replace the seal.
- A filter that's torn, or that isn't fine enough for the work you do, passes the finest dust. Check with the filter maker.
- If you clean a filter inside the shop, that dust ends up in the air too.
If the hood never caught it
- Close the other gates so the tool gets the full airflow.
- Check that the hose is the shortest it can be and the hood isn't blocked.
- Run the collector every time. A collector that stays off for "one quick cut" never sees that dust.
For the fine dust that still gets out: that's an air cleaner's job, not the collector's. GRIT Air Quality measures fine dust in the shop air and turns a compatible air cleaner on and off at the levels you set in the GRIT App. Check that your air cleaner works with the included RF outlet before you order. More on fine wood dust in the home shop.
What automation fixes, and what it doesn't
| Problem | Does automation help? |
|---|---|
| A gate left open at the last tool | Yes. Unused branches stay closed and the running tool's gate opens. |
| Forgetting to turn the collector on | Yes. The collector starts when the tool starts, after the gate opens. |
| Leaving the collector running | Yes. It shuts off when the tools tied to it stop, after the off-delay if you set one. |
| Running the collector against all-closed gates | Yes. The collector starts after the path is open. |
| Fine dust left in the room after the cut | It can help, with GRIT Air Quality running a compatible air cleaner. |
| Knowing when the bin is getting full | It can help, with the optional Dust Bin Sensor. It tells you. You still do the work. |
| Leaks, clogs, a loaded filter, long flex, a bad layout | No. Fix those first. |
| A worn-out motor, a bad starter, a broken impeller | No. That's a repair. |
If your duct, gates, and collector are in good shape and the remaining problems are on the "yes" side, see when it's time to automate and the two-tool starter system.
Troubleshooting a GRIT-automated shop
These checks come from GRIT's own product pages and support videos. If none of them solves it, contact GRIT at Home support.
The collector doesn't start when the tool starts
- Check how your collector starts. The plug-in Collector Controls (120V and 220V) switch a collector that plugs in and draws up to 15A. A collector with a magnetic starter needs the MagSwitch Collector, wired in by a licensed electrician. A plug-in switch can't start a mag starter. See Won't start.
- Remote-start collector (IR/RF Collector) missing commands? Move the IR/RF Collector closer to the collector's receiver. If on and off are still spotty, relearn the remote's commands in the GRIT App. Video: dust collector missing commands.
- Check that the tool is tied to the collector. In the GRIT App, each Trigger is associated with a collector and with the gate or gates on its branch. Video: how to configure a GRIT Trigger.
The collector keeps running after the tool stops
- A run for the set time after the tool stops is the optional off-delay, if you turned it on. It clears the ducts and spares motors that limit starts per minute.
- If it runs well past that, check the tool's Trigger and its settings in the GRIT App, or contact GRIT at Home support.
A gate doesn't open or close
- Gate type. The Gate Control fits standard metal blast gates from 2.5 to 6 inches with a slide that moves freely. If your gate has a locking knob, take it all the way out. Just loosening it isn't enough, because vibration can work it back in. Some newer locking-style gates are too stiff for the Gate Control. Plastic iVAC-style gates use the iVac Retrofit Gate Control instead. Video: which blast gates are compatible.
- Power. Gate Controls run on 12V from a Power Bank. If one gate is dead or its light flickers on and off, check that the wires are seated in the green connector, that the connector is pushed all the way into the actuator, and that the wire has enough slack. A wire pulled tight can make the connection come and go. Video: gate power.
- Calibration. If a gate sticks or seems to bind at the end of its travel, it may be set to open or close too far. Many gates have a small stop that can wedge when the slide is pushed past it. In the app's calibration menu, back the open or closed position off in small steps until the arm isn't straining. Video: gate calibration.
- Assignment. Make sure the gate is associated with the tool's Trigger in the GRIT App.
The GRIT App won't load, or the Hub won't join your Wi-Fi
- Blank app screen: make sure your phone is on the same Wi-Fi network as the Hub. If the Hub's network address changed, delete the app shortcut on your home screen and make it again by scanning the QR code on the Hub. To stop it from happening again, reserve an address for the Hub in your router. Video: app won't load.
- Wrong Wi-Fi password, or a new router: hold the side button on the Hub for a full 20 seconds to reset its network settings. Give it about a minute to restart and broadcast its own setup Wi-Fi, connect to that, and run the network setup again. Video: Hub network reset.
- The tool, gate, and collector sequence runs on the Hub in your shop. An internet outage shouldn't stop it.
The air cleaner doesn't come on
- Check that the air cleaner is plugged into the RF outlet that comes with GRIT Air Quality, that it's a compatible 120V air cleaner, and that your levels are set in the GRIT App.
Dust collector troubleshooting: quick answers
Why did my dust collector lose suction?
Usually because the air is going somewhere other than the tool. The common causes are more than one blast gate open, a leak at a joint or cleanout, a full bin or loaded filter, and long or crushed flex hose. Check them in that order before buying a bigger collector.
Why won't my dust collector turn on?
Check the breaker, the outlet, and the collector's own switch first. If it has a magnetic starter or a no-volt-release switch, it won't restart on its own after power is lost, so a smart plug or timer can't start it. If the motor hums but won't spin, follow the maker's manual.
Why won't a smart plug start my dust collector?
Collectors with a magnetic starter wait for someone to press Start after the power comes back. The smart plug restores power, but the starter stays off. That collector needs a control made for magnetic starters.
How do I know when to empty the dust collector bin?
Before the chips reach the inlet. Once the bin packs up into the inlet, airflow drops even though the collector sounds normal. A bin sensor, like the optional GRIT Dust Bin Sensor, can warn you before that point.
Why is dust coming out of my dust collector?
Usually a bad seal at the filter or bag clamp or at the bin lid, or a torn filter. Fine dust that the tool's hood never caught also ends up in the air. An air cleaner handles that part.
Why do I get static shocks from my dust collection hose?
Dust moving through plastic duct and flex hose builds up static. Ask your duct or collector maker how they want it grounded, and keep fine dust from piling up in the shop.
Why is my dust collector suddenly loud or rattling?
Turn it off and unplug it, then check the impeller and inlet for something that got sucked in. A steady rattle is usually loose duct or hardware. A whistle usually means a leak or a gate that's partly open.
Can automated blast gates fix a weak dust collector?
Only if the weakness comes from gates left open. Automated gates keep unused branches closed and open the one for the running tool. They don't fix leaks, clogs, a full bin, or a loaded filter.
My GRIT blast gate won't move. What should I check?
Check the 12V power connection and wire slack at the gate, that the gate is a free-sliding metal gate with no locking knob, that it isn't calibrated too far open or closed, and that it's assigned to the tool's Trigger in the GRIT App.
Fixed the basics? Keep it from coming back.
Once the duct is tight and the bin and filter are under control, most of what's left is habit: the gate you forgot and the collector you skipped. That's the part GRIT at Home takes care of.
Dust collector troubleshooting guide for the small shop
Most dust collector problems in a home shop come down to a handful of causes: air going somewhere other than the tool, something full or packed, something loose, or the collector not getting the signal to run. Start with the symptom you have, check the easy things first, and only then think about a bigger collector.
Find your symptom
| What you notice | Most likely causes | Check this first | More help |
|---|---|---|---|
| Weak suction at the tool | More than one gate open, a leak, a full bin or loaded filter, long or crushed flex | Close every gate but the one you're using | Weak suction, lost suction checklist |
| Collector won't start | No power at the outlet, a tripped breaker, a starter that needs Start pressed again | Breaker, plug, and the collector's own switch | Won't start |
| Collector keeps running after you're done | It was left on, or the thing that starts it still thinks a tool is running | What starts it: a switch, a remote, or automation | Won't stop |
| Suction drops as the session goes on | Bin filling up, filter loading | The bin level | Bin and filter, filter and bin care |
| Dust at the tool even with the gate "open" | Gate not fully open, wrong gate open, clog in that branch | Look at the gate slide itself | Gates, Clogs |
| Hissing or whistling | A leak or a gate that doesn't seat | Joints, cleanout doors, gate slides | Leaks |
| Chips piling in the duct or a hose that's suddenly dead | A clog at a bend, at a gate, or in long flex | The first bend after the tool | Clogs |
| Shocks when you touch the duct or hose | Static building on plastic duct or flex | Where the shock happens | Static |
| Rattling, banging, or a new noise | Something in the impeller, loose duct or hardware | Unplug and look | Noise |
| Fine dust hanging in the air or settling on everything | Dust escaping the collector, or fine dust the hood never caught | Filter seal and bin seal, then the room air | Dust in the air |
Weak suction
The blower is running, but the tool isn't getting the air. Work down this list in order. Each step is free or close to it.
- 01
Close every gate except the one you're using.
Air takes the easiest path. Two open branches split it, and the tool you're standing at feels weak. This is the most common cause in a shop with manual gates.
- 02
Look at the bin and the filter.
A packed bin or a caked filter chokes the whole system even though the motor sounds normal. See Bin and filter.
- 03
Find leaks.
Loose joints, an open cleanout, a gate slide that doesn't close all the way, and a cracked hose all pull room air instead of tool dust.
- 04
Shorten the flex.
Corrugated hose and tight bends cost airflow fast. Use flex for the last few feet to the tool, not the main run. See flex hose vs hard duct.
- 05
Check for a clog.
If one tool is dead and the others are fine, the problem is in that branch. See Clogs.
If all five check out and it's still weak, the duct may be laid out in a way that starves some tools. See duct layout and blast gate placement before you shop for a bigger collector. The short version of this list lives on the lost suction checklist.
Where automation helps: automated blast gates close the branches you aren't using, so step 1 stops being something you have to remember. Automation doesn't patch a leak, empty a bin, or clean a filter.
The collector won't start
If you start it by hand
- Check the breaker and the outlet. Plug a lamp into the same outlet to be sure it's live.
- Check the collector's own switch and any overload or reset button described in its manual.
- Magnetic starter or no-volt-release switch? These drop out when power is lost and wait for someone to press Start again. That's why a smart plug or plug-in timer won't start them: the outlet turns on, but the starter is still waiting. This is a start-method mismatch, not a dead collector. More on why a smart plug won't start a mag-starter collector. Don't bypass the starter to get around it.
If it starts from a remote
- Replace the remote battery and stand closer to the collector's receiver.
If the motor hums but won't spin, or trips the breaker right away: stop and follow the maker's manual. That's a repair, not a setup problem.
The collector keeps running
- Manual switch: someone left it on. It happens in every shop, mostly when you walk away "for a minute."
- Remote: the off button may not be reaching the receiver. Try a fresh battery and get closer.
- Automated with GRIT: the collector shuts off when the tools tied to it stop. If you set the optional off-delay, it keeps running for that set time first, to clear the ducts and to respect motors that limit starts per minute. That run is normal. If it runs on and on, see Troubleshooting a GRIT-automated shop below.
Full bin and loaded filter
These two cause more "my collector got weak" complaints than anything else.
- Empty the bin before it reaches the inlet. Once chips pack up into the inlet, the collector can look fine from the outside while the airflow falls off.
- Service the filter the way the filter maker says. Bags, cartridges, and canisters each have their own care. We don't publish a GRIT interval because the right one depends on your filter and how much you cut.
- Clean filters outside, or the way the maker says. Banging a filter clean inside the shop just puts the fine dust back in the air you breathe.
Full detail: dust collector filter and bin care.
Where GRIT can help, if you want it: the Dust Bin Sensor watches the fill level in the bin and flashes a strobe and sends an alert in the GRIT App when it's getting full. It doesn't empty the bin. You still do that.
Gates left open, or the wrong gate open
With manual gates, the usual failure isn't a broken gate. It's yesterday's gate still open while you work at a different tool, or no gate open at all.
- Check that the gate at the tool you're running is fully open, and every other gate is closed. Look at the slide, not just the handle.
- A gate that's hard to reach gets left open. Gates should be where you can see and reach them. See duct layout and blast gate placement.
- A sticky gate slide gets left half open. Clean out the track. If the gate has a locking knob, back it out.
- Never close every gate while the collector runs. The collector needs somewhere for the air to go. Keep one chosen branch open.
The day-to-day version of this problem: why manual blast gates get left open.
Where automation helps: with automated blast gates, the gate on the running tool's branch opens and the unused branches stay closed, and the collector starts only after the path is open. That takes the "wrong gate" and "forgot the gate" problems off your list. It won't fix a gate that's jammed or bent.
Leaks
A leak is room air getting into the duct instead of air from the tool. The collector works just as hard and moves less dust.
- Listen with the collector running. A hiss or whistle usually points right at it.
- Check the usual spots: duct joints, cleanout doors, hose clamps, the bin lid seal, the filter clamp, and closed gates that don't seat all the way.
- Fix it properly. Reseat and fasten joints. Replace cracked hose. Use foil tape or the duct maker's sealant where they call for it.
- Leaks on the clean side blow dust out. A bad seal at the filter or bag clamp pushes fine dust into the room instead of pulling it in. See Dust in the air.
Clogs in the duct or hose
- Find it by sections. If one tool is dead and the rest are fine, the clog is in that branch. If everything is weak, look near the collector inlet and the bin first.
- Usual spots: tight bends, the gate itself, a reducer, and long flex where chips catch in the ridges.
- Offcuts and floor sweeps. A floor sweep happily pulls in offcuts, screws, and rags that jam a bend or reach the impeller. Keep a screen or grate on it, and pick up the big stuff by hand.
- Too many gates open makes clogs worse. When the air is split, it slows down in each branch, and chips can drop out and settle.
- Clear it with the collector off and unplugged. Use a cleanout if you have one. Don't reach into the duct with the collector running.
Shops that skip the collector "for one quick cut" also get packed hoods and branches that only show up later. Running the collector every time the tool runs helps here.
Static shocks
Plastic duct and flex hose can build up static as dust moves through them. You feel it as a snap when you touch the hose or the duct.
- Note where it happens: one hose, one tool, or the whole run.
- Ask your duct maker or collector maker how they want their system grounded. We don't give grounding or bonding steps here, and your local code may have its own rules.
- Fine dust that piles up on machines and floors can burn. Keep it cleaned up and the bin emptied. GRIT doesn't prevent or detect fires. A short note on wood dust and fire.
Noise and rattles
- A new bang, rattle, or scrape: turn the collector off, unplug it, and look for something caught in the impeller or the inlet. Don't run it again until it's clear.
- A steady rattle: check for loose duct hangers, clamps, panels, and bolts on the collector.
- A whistle: usually a leak or a gate that's partly open. See Leaks.
- Change in pitch when you switch tools: often a sign that a different number of gates is open, or a branch is restricted.
- Too loud overall: a quieter collector is a bigger project, but running it only while you're cutting means fewer hours of noise. That's one honest benefit of starting the collector from the tool.
Dust escaping into the air
Some fine dust in the air means one of two things: the collector is letting it out, or the tool's hood never caught it.
If the collector is letting it out
- Look for a dust ring around the filter or bag clamp, or around the bin lid. Reseat or replace the seal.
- A filter that's torn, or that isn't fine enough for the work you do, passes the finest dust. Check with the filter maker.
- If you clean a filter inside the shop, that dust ends up in the air too.
If the hood never caught it
- Close the other gates so the tool gets the full airflow.
- Check that the hose is the shortest it can be and the hood isn't blocked.
- Run the collector every time. A collector that stays off for "one quick cut" never sees that dust.
For the fine dust that still gets out: that's an air cleaner's job, not the collector's. GRIT Air Quality measures fine dust in the shop air and turns a compatible air cleaner on and off at the levels you set in the GRIT App. Check that your air cleaner works with the included RF outlet before you order. More on fine wood dust in the home shop.
What automation fixes, and what it doesn't
| Problem | Does automation help? |
|---|---|
| A gate left open at the last tool | Yes. Unused branches stay closed and the running tool's gate opens. |
| Forgetting to turn the collector on | Yes. The collector starts when the tool starts, after the gate opens. |
| Leaving the collector running | Yes. It shuts off when the tools tied to it stop, after the off-delay if you set one. |
| Running the collector against all-closed gates | Yes. The collector starts after the path is open. |
| Fine dust left in the room after the cut | It can help, with GRIT Air Quality running a compatible air cleaner. |
| Knowing when the bin is getting full | It can help, with the optional Dust Bin Sensor. It tells you. You still do the work. |
| Leaks, clogs, a loaded filter, long flex, a bad layout | No. Fix those first. |
| A worn-out motor, a bad starter, a broken impeller | No. That's a repair. |
If your duct, gates, and collector are in good shape and the remaining problems are on the "yes" side, see when it's time to automate and the two-tool starter system.
Troubleshooting a GRIT-automated shop
These checks come from GRIT's own product pages and support videos. If none of them solves it, contact GRIT at Home support.
The collector doesn't start when the tool starts
- Check how your collector starts. The plug-in Collector Controls (120V and 220V) switch a collector that plugs in and draws up to 15A. A collector with a magnetic starter needs the MagSwitch Collector, wired in by a licensed electrician. A plug-in switch can't start a mag starter. See Won't start.
- Remote-start collector (IR/RF Collector) missing commands? Move the IR/RF Collector closer to the collector's receiver. If on and off are still spotty, relearn the remote's commands in the GRIT App. Video: dust collector missing commands.
- Check that the tool is tied to the collector. In the GRIT App, each Trigger is associated with a collector and with the gate or gates on its branch. Video: how to configure a GRIT Trigger.
The collector keeps running after the tool stops
- A run for the set time after the tool stops is the optional off-delay, if you turned it on. It clears the ducts and spares motors that limit starts per minute.
- If it runs well past that, check the tool's Trigger and its settings in the GRIT App, or contact GRIT at Home support.
A gate doesn't open or close
- Gate type. The Gate Control fits standard metal blast gates from 2.5 to 6 inches with a slide that moves freely. If your gate has a locking knob, take it all the way out. Just loosening it isn't enough, because vibration can work it back in. Some newer locking-style gates are too stiff for the Gate Control. Plastic iVAC-style gates use the iVac Retrofit Gate Control instead. Video: which blast gates are compatible.
- Power. Gate Controls run on 12V from a Power Bank. If one gate is dead or its light flickers on and off, check that the wires are seated in the green connector, that the connector is pushed all the way into the actuator, and that the wire has enough slack. A wire pulled tight can make the connection come and go. Video: gate power.
- Calibration. If a gate sticks or seems to bind at the end of its travel, it may be set to open or close too far. Many gates have a small stop that can wedge when the slide is pushed past it. In the app's calibration menu, back the open or closed position off in small steps until the arm isn't straining. Video: gate calibration.
- Assignment. Make sure the gate is associated with the tool's Trigger in the GRIT App.
The GRIT App won't load, or the Hub won't join your Wi-Fi
- Blank app screen: make sure your phone is on the same Wi-Fi network as the Hub. If the Hub's network address changed, delete the app shortcut on your home screen and make it again by scanning the QR code on the Hub. To stop it from happening again, reserve an address for the Hub in your router. Video: app won't load.
- Wrong Wi-Fi password, or a new router: hold the side button on the Hub for a full 20 seconds to reset its network settings. Give it about a minute to restart and broadcast its own setup Wi-Fi, connect to that, and run the network setup again. Video: Hub network reset.
- The tool, gate, and collector sequence runs on the Hub in your shop. An internet outage shouldn't stop it.
The air cleaner doesn't come on
- Check that the air cleaner is plugged into the RF outlet that comes with GRIT Air Quality, that it's a compatible 120V air cleaner, and that your levels are set in the GRIT App.
Dust collector troubleshooting: quick answers
Why did my dust collector lose suction?
Usually because the air is going somewhere other than the tool. The common causes are more than one blast gate open, a leak at a joint or cleanout, a full bin or loaded filter, and long or crushed flex hose. Check them in that order before buying a bigger collector.
Why won't my dust collector turn on?
Check the breaker, the outlet, and the collector's own switch first. If it has a magnetic starter or a no-volt-release switch, it won't restart on its own after power is lost, so a smart plug or timer can't start it. If the motor hums but won't spin, follow the maker's manual.
Why won't a smart plug start my dust collector?
Collectors with a magnetic starter wait for someone to press Start after the power comes back. The smart plug restores power, but the starter stays off. That collector needs a control made for magnetic starters.
How do I know when to empty the dust collector bin?
Before the chips reach the inlet. Once the bin packs up into the inlet, airflow drops even though the collector sounds normal. A bin sensor, like the optional GRIT Dust Bin Sensor, can warn you before that point.
Why is dust coming out of my dust collector?
Usually a bad seal at the filter or bag clamp or at the bin lid, or a torn filter. Fine dust that the tool's hood never caught also ends up in the air. An air cleaner handles that part.
Why do I get static shocks from my dust collection hose?
Dust moving through plastic duct and flex hose builds up static. Ask your duct or collector maker how they want it grounded, and keep fine dust from piling up in the shop.
Why is my dust collector suddenly loud or rattling?
Turn it off and unplug it, then check the impeller and inlet for something that got sucked in. A steady rattle is usually loose duct or hardware. A whistle usually means a leak or a gate that's partly open.
Can automated blast gates fix a weak dust collector?
Only if the weakness comes from gates left open. Automated gates keep unused branches closed and open the one for the running tool. They don't fix leaks, clogs, a full bin, or a loaded filter.
My GRIT blast gate won't move. What should I check?
Check the 12V power connection and wire slack at the gate, that the gate is a free-sliding metal gate with no locking knob, that it isn't calibrated too far open or closed, and that it's assigned to the tool's Trigger in the GRIT App.
Fixed the basics? Keep it from coming back.
Once the duct is tight and the bin and filter are under control, most of what's left is habit: the gate you forgot and the collector you skipped. That's the part GRIT at Home takes care of.